Hot Oil Treatments

 For years, I've been doing hot oil treatments, mostly via pre-poo. They used to work a little, but then I didn't notice a difference. A couple of years ago, I decided to stop altogether because I was just wasting oils and time. I started to think my hair hated oil, especially coconut oil. I recently figured out that I was doing it all wrong. 

For my last three wash days, I did a hot oil treatment on freshly washed hair, and it has made all of the difference. Oils just don't penetrate on my dirty hair. This last wash day I saw the best results ever. 

To back up, I have chronically dry hair. Retaining moisture has been my number one problem for at least the last 10 years. One of the reasons I went back to getting my hair relaxed was my natural hair was so dry it caused damaged. I've always said once I find moisture, I know my hair will thrive. Now, I'm a little more optimistic of that happening.

So after I cleaned my hair with shampoo, I applied a mix of different oils (coconut, jojoba, grapeseed, wheat germ, and a few others) that I warmed up in a bowl of hot water to my hair. I saturated my hair with it, put my hair up in a clip, and sat under the steamer for about 25 minutes. I then rinsed it out. I noticed it was hard to rinse a lot of the oil, so maybe I'll co-wash next time. I then applied my deep conditioner and let it sit with a heat cap on it for another 20 minutes. When I rinsed my hair, it felt moist and heavy in a good way. I then rollerset my hair and sat under the dryer until my hair was completely dry. When I took the rollers out, my hair felt a little oily, but it had shine and body like I haven't seen in years. I was worried that I overdid it with the oil, but wrapped my hair anyway and went to bed. When I woke up and combed my hair out, I was shocked at how moist and manageable my hair was. The feeling is what I've been looking for all of this time! There's no frizz, my hair is moist and holds a curl, and my scalp feels smooth instead of it's usual rough and dry feel. Even wrapping my hair is easier and looks better when I comb it out. 

I'm hoping this is the key to my hair health and retention. I'll be doing this hot oil treatment for my next few washes!

Stress and Dryness

My hair is finally recovering after a tough year. I had a rough breakup, took care of my sick father until he passed away, handled my dad's affairs including renovating and moving into his house, and mourned the sudden loss of my sweet dog. All of that while trying to be a good mom to my son and stay on top of my new job had me all over the place. Stress really does come out in many ways, even in the health of our hair.

I thought my hair was doing okay at first. I wasn't spending much time on it, and was wearing buns and wigs on days I couldn't deal with it. I soon realized my hair wasn't in the best shape. It was dry and lifeless, wouldn't hold a curl, and didn't absorb products. Then, I noticed lots of shedding. I wore braids all summer, but looking back, I think that was a mistake because I wasn't dealing with my hair, I was just hiding it. And, I think that made it worse. When I took my braids out at the end of the summer, my hair was armpit length, but the ends were a mess. I got a good haircut, which helped a little, but I didn't like how it felt or how it looked.

My hairstylist at the time was using a no-lye relaxer on my hair. I had only used relaxers with lye until I started going to this stylist, so I asked her to change relaxers. That made a difference, but my ends looked thin, like my hair was over processed. I made the decision to go to another stylist who could bring my hair back to health, listened to me, and had me in and out of the salon (Very important!). She has been so helpful, encouraging me to stretch my relaxers and recommending new products to try. She also gave me a great haircut, adding layers and getting rid of the see-through ends. I've been using Hot Six Oil to moisturize and my hair loves it. It keeps my hair moisturized without weighing down. I'm still working on my hair's elasticity so that it holds a curl, but I think that will come with more moisture. 

A few other things I've been doing on my own to help my hair's health:

- Applying black Adore semi-permanent color every 2 weeks. I prefer my hair color more brown, but the black makes it look so shiny and thick! And, I feel like it conditions it so that it accepts products better.
- Prenatal vitamins. My hair really thrived when I was taking prenatal vitamins when I was trying to get pregnant and after I had my son. I had to find the right one for me because I have tried others (including Biotin and Hair, Skin and Nails vitamins) that did nothing. I'm liking the Nature Made brand.
- Wrapping my hair every night. I thought my hair didn't look good after a wrap. Now that it's healthier, wrapping seems like the best thing to keep my hair smooth and looking full and bouncy. I change the direction of my wrap every few nights.
- Gave up using all oils except the Hot Six Oil. I've tried almost every natural oil, but they either sit on my hair, or weigh it down. I'm saving my oils for my skin.
- Took a break from protein. I don't think my hair needs the protein I thought it did. I haven't used a protein conditioner in a couple of months and my hair seems to be doing better.

This past year has reminded me that life, our bodies and our hair change...that's okay, we just have to be ready to deal with that change and pivot when we need to!

First Braid Out in Years!

As my hair gets longer, the less time I want to spend on it. I do a lot of exercising, and I just want to be easy and free this summer. Since I went back to relaxed hair, I have been washing, conditioning and roller setting my hair weekly. Because I'm pretty active, the curls only last a couple of days. I'm looking for easy styles this summer that will keep my hair healthy. I decided to try a braid out on my relaxed hair. I hadn't done a braid out in years!

I shampooed with Cream of Nature Argan Oil from Morocco Moisture & Shine Shampoo, deep conditioned with Shea Moisture Manuka Honey & Mafura Oil Intensive Hydration Treatment Masque and used Curls Cashmere & Caviar Hair Silk as my leave in. I don't use any of these products on a regular basis, but I wanted as much moisture as possible. I already had them at home, so I gave them a try. I really liked the Curls Cashmere & Caviar leave in- I noticed immediately how much it moisturized my hair. I let my hair air dry loose with a satin scarf around my edges. When my hair was almost completly dry, I created 8 braids using Curls Twist n Shout Cream and avocado oil. I rolled the ends with small perm rods and went to bed.

I was a little nervous to see the result the next morning. I worked out with a scarf around my edges, took a shower, and then took my braids out. I was pleasantly surprised with the results! My hair had great definition, felt moisturized, and looked really full.

This might have not been the best day for me to rock a braid out, because it was SO humid and a little rainy! On top of the humidity, I took a pretty intense yoga class and taught a yoga class. By the end of the day, I had some straight strands. My plan was to put my hair up in 2 pineapples for the night, but because of the humidity, I re-braided my hair.

If I can keep a nice braid out for 4-5 days, I think this will be a good summer style for me!

Please give me any tips on how to master my braid out!

Product Review: Shea Moisture Yucca & Aloe Baobab Thickening Moisture Mist

I bought this product a few months ago, during a Shea Moisture buy one, get one free sale at CVS.  I had never used mists before, so I didn't know what I was going to do with it, but the fact that it is for fine, thin hair attracted me to the product.

Product Description
SheaMoisture's Yucca & Baobab Thickening Moisture Mist for fine, thin hair helps thicken strands and increase volume for thicker, full-bodied hair. - Made with natural and certified organic ingredients. - Baobab Oil contains Vitamins A, C, D, E and F to fortify and strengthen hair. - Yucca thickens hair while adding volume. - Biotin is a powerful B vitamin that strengthens the hair follicle.

Ingredients
Deionized Water, Adansonia Digitata (Baobab) Extract, Yucca Filamentosa Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Oil*, Aloe Vera Leaf Juice, SD 40 Alcohol, Hydrolyzed Wheat protein, Biotin, Rosemary Extract, Bamboo Extract, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower (and) Lonicera Japonica (Japanese Honeysuckle) Flower Extract

Directions
Spray on damp or towel dried hair, concentrating on roots. Style as desired.

My Experience
I started using this after taking my crochet braids out.  I was experiencing some shedding and breakage.  I use it almost every day on dry hair for my LOC method in the evening.  The mist is the "L" (liquid) in the method before I twist my hair.  It has a distinctive scent, not too strong though, and has the texture and consistency of water.  It's not sticky or oily at all.  I spray 2-3 squirts on each section.

This has become one of my staple products. I love this stuff.  It helped cut down on the breakage (along with a good trim), and my hair stays moisturized and soft and shiny. It makes my hair look so full and big...and I love big hair!  My hair isn't thin, but my strands are fine, and I think this product helps plump up my strands some.  It also keeps my hair more manageable.  I don't really de-tangle at all anymore when I re-twist, not even with my fingers.  All of this has definitely helped me retain growth.  Please note that there is alcohol in this mist, but I haven't noticed any ill effects from it.  I'm actually almost out, and it usually takes me a while to finish a product.  I will definitely re-purchase.

Haircut & Wash N Go by Jaded Tresses

A few weeks ago, I signed up for a natural hair workshop through my local natural hair meetup group.  The event was this past Saturday, and I was sick with a head cold. I felt so tired and sick and didn't want to go, but as I was laying in bed, I looked up the presenters online, and I saw that one of the presenters was a natural hair stylist from New Jersey/Brooklyn and she was giving a wash n go workshop. I was skeptical about doing a wash n go on this head, but being that she was from out of state, I wanted to see what she had to say.  I've been thinking about going to NYC to get a professional cut and style, so I thought this would help me decide for sure.  Plus, I had already paid for the workshop!! So I got my sick butt up and went to the event at a restaurant about twenty minutes from my home.

The first half of the workshop was a mixing demo with Candace Kelley of Curl Prep.  She showed us how to make a shea butter (I need to get some REAL shea butter!) and a protein conditioner.  Then, the famous Tameeka aka Jaded Tresses aka the "Curl Whisperer" talked about how anyone can do a wash n go. I was still skeptical, but she took a woman from the audience with 4c hair and did it! She showed us exactly what she did and what products she used. She did the wash n go on very wet hair and used the Sweet Buttah she and Candace promote, and an EcoStyler mix (ecostyler, water, & oil). Then she ran the product through the hair. I still wasn't sure it would work on me, though.

Tameeka was also taking appointments the next day at a local salon, so I book an appointment to get a much needed trim.  She washed and conditioned my hair, and then cut my hair while it was wet.  The then re-wet it and shingled my hair for a wash and go.  I saw my hair curl and clump like never before!  Of course it shrunk a lot as it dried, but at least I had curls.  She told me that I don't have the chronic dry hair I thought I have.  She actually told me that I have a nice head of dense, thick hair.  I really enjoyed Tameeka doing my hair. This was my first time as a natural going to the salon (not including the times I got my hair straightened), and it was a great experience. I was treated with respect, Tameeka took me in a timely manner, she gave me a great scalp massage, and we had a fun and interesting conversation- about hair and other things!  She said she might come back to Boston in November, so I might see her again for some color.

That first night I just put a bonnet on and went to bed. In the morning, I rubbed some of the Sweet Buttah on my hands, fluffed, and went out the door. The next night, I put my hair in about 8 ponytails just to stretch it some, and I still had a cute, curly afro! Tameeka said that I'd probably want to do a twistout by day 4 or 5, but that's cool- at least I don't have to twist every night. My hair finally has shape, I don't have to spend 20-30 minutes a night on it, and it looks cute!

This was my hair on day 3:

And then on day 4 after twisting it the night before using just the Sweet Buttah:

I actually like the wash and go look, so the next time I wash it, I'm going to try and go 4-5 days with the wash n go.  I feel like my experience was just the blessing I needed. I was actually thinking about doing the big chop again and just starting over.  I was frustrated with twisting it every night, not having a shape, and thinking that my hair was dry and unhealthy.  Hallelujah!! 

Benefits of Avocado for Hair

Avocado oil is a great oil for hair.  It has a high amount of monounsaturated fatty acid, which helps moisturize, strengthen and nourish dry and damaged hair. Using avocado to massage the scalp also stimulates blood flow to the hair follicles, helping new growth and healthier hair. It also has high levels of vitamin E, which is also moisturizing and protects against environmental damage and helps to unclog blocked follicles.  You will also find the super good vitamins A, B, and D. It also has protein, amino acids, iron, copper, magnesium, and folic acid - all nutrients that help keep hair healthy and damage-free.

I bought avocado oil a while ago, but I've been using it more and more lately.  I find that it is a good sealer, and doesn't weigh my hair down like some other oils.  I've used it to pre-poo, for my oil when I'm moisturizing using the LOC method, and to rub on my hands when I'm taking down my twists (this is my favorite way to use it). 

I have read reports that too much can make the hair brittle, so as with almost everything, I use it in moderation!

Product Review: ION Demi Permanent Creme Hair Color

If you've been reading this blog, you know that gray coverage is one of my biggest hair challenges.  I started seeing gray hairs the day I turned 30, and every year, I see a little more.  My gray grows mostly around my edges in the front with some random white strands in my crown.  Every year, they also seem to get more stubborn to color.  Some strands are a different texture than the rest of my hair- more wiry, thick, and harder to control.

For years, I used semi-permanent color, either at home or at the salon, and it worked.  I could apply the color right after relaxing, and it would cover my gray until my next relaxer most times.  I also loved semi-permanent color because it helped moisturize my hair and increase the shine.  It was a great option for my low porosity hair.  A few years ago, I noticed that only the black colors would cover the gray, and that I would have to re-apply every 2-3 weeks.  BUT, I'm allergic to PPD, a chemical that is in a lot of black and dark brown dyes.  After I cut out my relaxer, semi-permanent colors stopped working in my hair altogether.  They didn't cover the gray or help with moisture and shine.  It was a waste of time and money to apply them.   I tried henna, but it ruined my hair (a different story for another time).  Permanent color is not an option for me at this time because I want to get my hair to a healthier state before risking a permanent color.

I had been reading about demi-permanent color, mostly about how it's good for low porosity heads because it lifts the cuticle, allowing moisture in without damage.  I was afraid to try it for a long time, but when my curlfriend Suzy told me about her success with it, I decided to give it a try.  I bought the ION Color Brilliance Intensive Shine Dem-Permanent Creme Hair Color from Sally Beauty for about $5. I also bought the level 10 developer for sensitive scalp for about $2.  I've applied this product twice, so I'll discuss how I applied it both times.

Product Description

• Enhance, change or increase the color intensity
• Ionic protection for stronger hair structure
• Botanically derived nourishing ingredients
• Fade resistant and intense conditioning
• Cover and blend gray hair up to 100%
• Maximum light reflection and shine

Ion Color Brilliance Intensive Shine Demi Permanent Creme Hair Color is a state-of-the-art European Ionic Formula that is a luxurious, long-lasting, deposit-only hair color without ammonia.

Covers and blends gray hair without lifting the hair's natural pigment. Same-day color with chemical relaxers and permanent waves.

The Ionic formula provides protection for stronger hair structure. Ion Color Brilliance Demi Permanent Creme Hair Color contains botanically derived nourishing ingredients with a refreshing fragrance.

Ingredients
WATER, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, ETHANOLAMINE, LAURETH-3, SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE ,OLETH-5 PHOSPHATE ,DIOLEYL PHOSPHATE, SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE, GLYCERYL STEARATE SE, FRAGRANCE, TOLUENE-2, 5-DIAMINE SULFATE, BEESWAX, SODIUM SULFITE, SODIUM SULFATE, 2-METHYLRESORCINOL, P-AMINOPHENOL, EDTA, LIMNANTHES ALBA (MEADOWFOAM) SEED OIL ,ERYTHORBIC ACID, 2-AMINO-3-HYDROXYPYRIDINE, M-AMINOPHENOL ,RESORCINOL, 4-AMINO-2-HYDROXYTOLUENE, 2, 4-DIAMINOPHENOXYETHANOL HCL, SIMETHICONE, GLYCERIN, TRITICUM VULGARE (WHEAT) GLUTEN, ALPHA ISOMETHYL IONONE, CITRONELLOL, GERANIOL, LINALOOL

Directions
Select desired shade. Mix 2 oz. of Ion Intensive Shine Demi Hair Color with 4 oz. ion Sensitive Scalp Crème Developer 10 Volume in a non-metallic bowl. Mixing ratio is 1:2 unless otherwise noted. See Color Objective Chart.

All instructions are based on average texture, normal porosity; Fine hair is much more receptive to hair coloring where coarse hair is not.

Use Ion Color Brilliance Pre-Color Treatment to help ensure even color results from scalp to ends. A 5-minute cool down is recommended if heat is used prior to rinsing. Standard processing time is 10-40 minutes at room temperature and 10-15 minutes with heat. After processing, rinse hair thoroughly until the water runs clear.

Shampoo and style as desired

My Experience

First time: The first time I used this, I bought the #3N Dark Natural Brown Color.  I read a lot of reviews saying that the color results are dark, and if you leave it on long, you'll have black hair.  I didn't want black hair, but I also wanted to make sure the grays were covered.  I mixed the whole bottle of color with the entire bottle of developer (1:2 ratio).  It took me about 10 minutes to apply the color, and then I sat under the dyer for 30 minutes.  I then co-washed it out.  I kept it in too long, because my hair was pretty much black!  I also had some staining around my hairline.  The skin along my edges felt a little irritated. I was so scared I had an allergic reaction, but this product doesn't contain PPD.  I think I just left it on too long, and I had applied the product to my edges first.  The irritation went away after a day or so.

Second time: I applied the demi permanent again about 5 weeks later.  The grays that the color covered were still almost black, but I had a lot of newly grown grays around my edges.  This time, I used color #4N Medium Natural Brown. Again, it took me about 10 minutes to apply to my whole head, but then I just walked around with a plastic cap on my head for another 10-15 minutes, without heat.  I shampoo'd the color out this time. The shorter time with the product in my hair, along with using shampoo prevented the staining, the dark, dark color, and the skin irritation.  The result was a dark brown, but not black at all.  A week later, I noticed my hair looked lighter brown in the sun.

Both times, my hair was shiny and so moisturized...or, should I say the product opened my cuticles so that I could get some moisture into my hair.  Since using this product, my hair responds to products SO much better.  Before, any product just sat on my hair, but now I can actually form an accurate opinion on a product since my hair is finally absorbing it.  There are also a lot less broken hairs in my brush, on my shirt, and on the floor.  I haven't seen the color run at all, even when using shampoo. The only grays I see now are the new ones popping up!  I really wished I had tried this at the beginning of my natural hair journey, because it would have saved me months and months of dryness, breakage and frustration.

Great Wash Day for My Low Porosity Hair

I removed my crochet braids a couple of weeks ago and wore my natural hair out for a few days, but I installed the crochet braids again- mostly out of pure laziness.  I liked my natural hair out and I saw some growth, I just don't feel like twisting my hair every night, especially now that it's hot.  It's hard to let go of something that works, especially when it's easy and cheap, but I do plan on playing in my real hair this summer! I also need a professional trim/cut. I found a few local places that specialize in Deva Cuts, so I think I'll try one of them later this summer.  

What I was happiest about when I wore my hair out, was that it stayed moist!  I pre-poo'd for about an hour with coconut oil.  I shampoo'd with ORS Creamy Aloe Shampoo, then I did a 10-minute condition with Trader Joe's Nourish and Spa + Giovanni 50:50 Balancing Conditioner + a teaspoon of baking soda.  I then deep conditioned under the steamer with SheaMoisture Yucca & Baobab Anti-Breakage Masque.  I twisted on damp hair with Oyin Hair Dew and Oyin Burnt Sugar Pomade.

I've been doing a lot more research on how to keep my low porosity hair moisturized.  I think I found success in shampooing with the ORS Creamy Aloe Shampoo.  It removes a lot of buildup without stripping my hair.  I loved it when I was relaxed, but stopped using it when I realized my hair doesn't like aloe vera juice (aloe is pretty far down on the ingredient list- #24).  Co-washing doesn't always get my hair clean, especially after having my hair in a protective style for 4 weeks.  Adding the baking soda lifted my tight hair cuticles and really allowed more moisture into my hair strands. Using baking soda in the hair is controversial because there is a risk of damage, but it worked for me, so I'm going to try to use it once or twice a month.  This was my first time using this particular SheaMoisture conditioner, and I really liked it.  I'm sure steaming with it helped make it more effective.  When I rinsed the conditioner out, my hair looked really nice- curly, shiny and even stretched out more than usual.  Even my man asked me to leave it exactly like that!  I knew it wouldn't look the same after it dried, and I'm not brave enough to wash and go yet, so I moved on with styling.  This was my first time using Oyin products.  I loved the smell and the products seemed pretty light.  The next day, my twist out was shiny and defined:

Product Review: Hicks Edges

I decided to install crochet braids again.  When I took the old braids out, I was happy with the condition of my hair.  It was very moist, and I didn't see any breakage at all.  I just want to continue doing a protective style.  This time I used color 1B, which is almost black.  I also applied a black semi-permanent color to my hair.  I think it will help my hair look thicker and shiny. Plus, it's a nice change!

I've also been using a new product for my edges - Hicks Edges.  My hairline has always been a trouble spot.  The hair there has always been short, so it doesn't lay down like I wish it did.  I have had fuzzy edges since I can remember.  I've tried a lot of edge control products, and so far this is the most effective!

Product Description
Hicks Total TRANSFORMATIONS, Hicks Edges holds hair firmly in place with a super shine and without flakiness. Leaves edges looking and feeling shinier and healthier than before. This genuine hair gel is non-flaky and non-sticky and rinses out easily. Control tapered cuts and nape back area.

Ingredients
Water, Ceteareth-25, PEG-7 Glycerylcocoate, Propylene Glycol, PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, DMDM Hydantoin Andiodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Frangrance

Directions
Apply a small amount of TRANSFORMATIONS Smooth Edges around edges and smooth with fingertips until hair stays in place or comb in smooth with a comb.

My Experience
I've been using this about every other day.  In the morning, after I work out, I brush my hair a little, and then apply the product to my edges (dry hair) with a toothbrush, and then tie my edges down with a silk scarf while I shower and get dressed.  When I take my scarf off, my edges are LAID.

I haven't experienced any flaking or buildup with this product.  Most edge control products don't last more than an hour or two for me, but this pretty much lasts all day. I took a 30-minute walk this afternoon and my edges still looked pretty good:

I work out almost every day, and I still only need to apply this every other morning.  I'm hoping that this product will help my edges grow since they are moisturized and laid down.  It's a keeper!

UPDATED Product Review: Product Review: Shea Moisture Curl Enhancing Smoothie

I reviewed this product a little over a year ago, and I didn't think it was the product for me.  Well, that was then and this is now.  I feel like I have a different head of hair than I did in December, 2012.  My hair is longer, thicker, not damaged, and most importantly, moisturized.  I also know that layering with the right products helps, and I think I found my combination with the Curl Enhancing Smoothie.

I've been using it for a while, but I just realized today how well it works for me.  Over the past two weeks, I've been trying other products to twist my hair, and I went back to this last night and woke up with juicy, shiny hair with defined curls.  Based on recommendations from friends, I've been trying other curling creams and butters and they haven't done what this product does for me.  Here's my process at night when I re-twist:

1. Spray a little water or my water/leave-in/oil mix on each section
2. Apply a little castor oil to the section
3. Apply Curl Enhancing Smoothie to the full length of hair in the section, concentrating on the ends
4. Apply a little bit of Ecostyler Gel to the ends
5. Twist and bantu knot

Many people know this as the LOC method - liquid, oil and cream.  For a long time, I was applying the oil after the cream, but this way yields much better results.  This combination of products not only moisturizes my hair, but it also stretches it more and makes it a lot easier to style in the morning.  With some products, my hair doesn't stretch more each day, which makes it hard for me to pick the parts out, resulting in breakage.  I never hear or feel hair snapping when I use this!

New Year, Better Hair

Happy 2014!

I had a great Christmas and New Year, and a long, much needed break.  Since I didn't have to go to work for a couple of weeks, I got a little lazy about twisting my hair every night.  This was a good thing, because I got to be creative with styling and trying new products.  I do still need to re-twist every night though, because my hair frizzes a lot, even if I put my hair into a bunch of ponytails at night like I used to.  I'm going to stick with my twist/bantu knot out for a little while longer until my hair grows some more.  My twistouts have been less than stellar, mostly because I can't keep the ends curly, and I want my hair to fall down a little more instead of sticking out!

I also stopped blow drying my hair before twisting.  It's not as necessary as I thought it was to achieve a good bantu knot out, and I was losing so much hair in the process (breakage and shedding).  Also, my hair is so much more moist and "springy" when I don't blow dry.

I'm still using most of the same products, but I've incorporated protein and castor oil into my regimen again. I've been using Aphogee Keratin 2 Minute Reconstructor every week or two, and it really has helped cut down on the shedding (I am a heavy shedder!).  The castor oil helps control frizz, keeps my hair moisturized longer, and creates more defined twistouts.  It's definitely a winter staple.  I always think that the heavier products weigh my hair down, but they've been pretty good lately- probably because it's winter, and the air is so cold and dry.

The most exciting thing was that I was able to pull my hair into my first puff!  I'm not able to pull it all into a ponytail, but I can use a headband or a scarf to pull up the sides, front and back.

Since I've been on such a good roll lately with my hair and it's moisture level, I had been afraid to try anything different.  But, I'm glad I did, because now I know not to be afraid of heavier conditioners and moisturizers and oils like castor oil and coconut.

Oil Rinsing

I'm always looking for ways to moisturize my hair!  I knew about oil rinsing, but was weary since my low porosity hair can be very sensitive to oils.  Most times, an oil pre-poo does nothing positive for my hair.  I read some articles about women with low porosity hair oil rinsing their hair, so I decided to give it a try.

Oil rinsing is when you apply oil to your hair after shampooing but before conditioning.  Some people rinse the oil out before conditioning, others leave it in.  Some even put the oil on top of their conditioner.  The advantages of oil rinsing are retaining moisture (of course), less frizz, more shine, and less tangles and knots.

Here's what I did this weekend:

1. Washed my hair with Shea Moisture Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention Shampoo.

2. Applied about a tablespoon of heated grapeseed oil to my hair in sections from root to tip.

3. While the oil penetrated my hair, I put about a tablespoon of Trader Joe's Nourish Spa Conditioner in the microwave for 15 seconds, and then applied it to my hair from root to tip.

4.  Put on a plastic cap. I planned on sitting under the dryer, and then rinsing and styling my hair.  I didn't feel like it, so I put a scarf over my cap and went to bed.  In the morning, I rinsed out the conditioner and oil well in the shower under warm water.

* I heated up my oil and conditioner because I know that heat is my friend.  Heating up my conditioners opens my cuticles to allow moisture in.  I've seen a significant increase in moisture level and shine by doing this.
* I chose grapeseed oil over other penetrating oils like olive or coconut because I wanted to use a lighter oil for my first time oil rinsing.  When I have pre-poo'd with heavier oils, it was very hard for me to get most of the oil out, even after shampooing, and I was left with weighed down hair that felt unclean.

My results:

• Less shed and broken hair - My hair sheds A LOT, and I didn't see as much hair in the shower when I rinsed.
• Easier to detangle - My hair doesn't tangle much, but my shower comb slid through it very easily.
• More hang time!  For real, I thought I had long hair when I got out of the shower, lol.  This was the first time I saw my natural hair hang down.  If the weather was warmer, I might have been bold enough to try a wash and go.  I believe this has to do with what Elle from Quest for the Perfect Curl calls coating.  I've been saying for years that my hair needs more of a natural and good "coating" to make it heavier, but not weighed down to fall right and stay moisturized and protected. She's the only other person I've seen discuss this in a way that speaks to me and my hair needs.   

Since I just did this the other day, I'll see how my hair retains moisture this week.  Today is my first day of my bantu knot out, and usually my first day hair isn't the best- it's usually a little drier than the other days...but not today!  My felt moist and looked shiny when I fluffed my hair.

I plan on oil rinsing for my next few washes and will report back my moisture retention and any increase in thickness.

Product Review: Trader Joe's Nourish Spa Balance Moisturizing Conditioner

Based on so many positive reviews, I bought the Trader Joe's Nourish Spa Balance Moisturizing Conditioner about a year ago for the sole purpose of co-washing.  It is a great product to co-wash with.  Now that I don't co-wash, I decided to try it another way.  I bought this from Trader Joe's for under $5.

Product Description
When your hair is dry, it needs to be nourished. This balanced hair remoisturizer is ideal for replenishing dry, brittle hair. Perfect for use daily, it infuses moisture and exceptional shine, without weighing hair down. Enhanced with organic botanicals, it does not contain laurel/laureth sulfates.

Ingredients
purified water, organic rosemary oil, organic valencia orange citrus, organic mango, organic lemongrass, organic ginko biloba, organic echinacea, organic willow bark, organic sea kelp, organic chamomile flower, organic textured soy protein, organic lavender, organic grapefruit citrus, tocopherol (Vit E), acetamide MEA, cetyl alcohol, citric acid, methylparaben, propylparaben, botanical fragrance

Directions

Apply after Nourish Shampoo, massaging its wealth of moisture into drenched hair. Rinse thoroughly and style.

My Experience

When my hair was very short and I was swimming almost every day, I co-washed almost every day, and this product was great, especially for slip.  As the weather got colder and my hair got longer, I stopped co-washing as often. Now I wash my hair once a week with shampoo, so I don't co-wash at all.  So, I shelved this conditioner, thinking that I needed something thicker to deep condition with.  I've finally realized that my hair doesn't do well with thick conditioners so I decided to pull the Trader Joe's conditioner out and try it again.

I also have the Nourish Shampoo, and I like it, but I'm trying to stick with one shampoo for a while, so I used a Shea Moisture shampoo before I used this conditioner.  I put some of the conditioner in a bowl and microwaved it for 15 seconds before applying it to my hair.  My hair is low porosity, and I've been making a conscious effort to get more moisture in my hair.  I've realized that heat is actually my hair's friend and heating my conditioners help my hair absorb them better.  I put on a plastic cap and sat under the dryer for about 20 minutes.  When I took the plastic cap off, my hair was so moisturized and shiny that I didn't want to rinse it out!  However, even after I rinsed it out my hair was very moisturized and soft.  My hair was extremely easy to de-tangle, and I even saw some clumped curl definition- which I hardly ever see without twisting! Honestly, I haven't experienced this kind of moisture and soft texture since ORS Replenishing was my staple years ago when I was relaxed.  

I'm definitely going to continue to use this conditioner on a weekly basis.

First Day Hair

I loved my hair all last week while I did bantu knot outs.  I re-twisted every night and each day my hair looked better.  Sunday night I did not twist it because I got home late from a wedding.  Monday, my hair still looked good!

I decided to wash on Monday night - I know, what was I thinking?!  I pre-poo'd with coconut oil and sat under the steamer for about 20 minutes. Then I washed once with As I Am Co-Wash and deep conditioned with Shea Moisture Raw Shea Butter Deep Treatment Masque for 20 minutes under the dryer.  I plopped with a t-shirt and blow dried my hair on low/medium to stretch it out a little.  I twisted with my moisturizing spray, Shea Moisture Curl Enhancing Smoothie, Argan oil, and Ecostyler gel with Olive Oil.

My hair was a little damp this morning, but I loosened the bantu knots and did some things around the house for about 15 minutes.  It was dry by the time I picked it out. I like my hair, but it's not great.  I'm just glad it's moisturized.  It's a little frizzy, but I also know that first day hair isn't the best. I'm looking forward to the rest of the week!

I'm not yet sold on the As I Am Co-Wash.  My hair felt clean, but I had some white residue on my scalp. I think I need to shampoo my scalp once a week.

Not sold on the Shea Moisture Raw Shea Butter Deep Treatment Masque as a deep conditioner either.  The consistency was too thick, my hair had no slip, and my hair didn't feel any more moisturized when I washed it out.  I may try this as a curling cream, but no more as a deep conditioner.

Kinky with a Side of Heat Damage

After 2 rounds of getting my hair pressed, I decided to work with my natural texture for a while.  My son had a pool party this past weekend, and I got in the pool with him and got my hair wet.  I was extremely self-conscious about my hair while playing in the pool, but my friends said they really liked it curly!  When I got home I examined my hair before I washed it, and what do you know- I had heat damage in a couple of places!  It's not too bad, but there are two areas (in the back and on the side) where a small part of my hair is straight.  I knew this was the risk I took by getting my hair straightened- and my stylist really straightened it.  I'm going to take a break from getting it pressed.

The night before the pool party, I did a bantu knot out on my straightened hair with As I Am Curling Jelly and a pinch of gel on the ends:

I liked it, but the ends were a little too straight and there wasn't much hold, so it wouldn't have lasted more than a day even if I hadn't gone swimming.  I didn't like how sticky the As I Am Curling Jelly felt on my fingers, but it didn't make my hair sticky, so I won't give up on it just yet.

On Monday, I tried to rock a stretched out bun.  It was a misty, humid day, so it was a frizzy FAIL. I didn't even take a picture.

Monday night, I did a bantu knot out using a spray bottle of water/leave-in/oil, Shea Moisture Curl Enhancing Smoothie and a little gel on the ends:

I loved how moist it was, but I still want a little more curl definition. I also need to work at shaping and styling my fro!  I keep my afro pick close by.

Last night, I did another bantu knot out using the same products as the night before, but I put a little more gel on the length of my hair:

I like today's 'fro the best out of the three.  My hair feel so soft and moist and I had a little more curl definition.  Also, my hair stretches more each day, so I like the length.  I think the key to maintaining moisture is my spray bottle of water, leave-in and oil, as well as blow drying my hair a little after I wash it.  I wish I could be totally heat free, but for now, this is what is working.  It's not exactly how I want it, and maybe it never will be, but I'm still going to keep trying.

DIY Moisturizer

I'm still in the kinky twists, and I'm really loving them. I like having a nice hairstyle every day that I don't have to do much too.  It's perfect for the summer.  I've had them in for a little over 8 weeks, and although they still look good, I'm taking them out this week.  I don't want my hair to tangle or get matted. I think I'll get them put back in so I can let my hair grow over the summer without much manipulation.

I took one twist out today and I was extremely happy about how moist my hair is!  I'm thinking that I will have to create a whole new hair regimen.  Maybe my hair is getting back to normal from being so dry for the past year.  I think consistent swimming last year and the henna treatments really dried my hair out, so I'm hoping that my hair is on the road to recovery.

So how did I get this moist hair? It's so simple.  In the past 8 weeks, I've only washed my scalp twice.  Every morning I spray my scalp and roots with a mixture of water, jojoba oil, castor oil and Giovanni Direct Leave-In Conditioner.  I never measure, but it's about 3 parts water, 1 part conditioner and .5 parts oil.  My scalp hasn't itched at all.  Even my edges are doing well, and I haven't done much but brush them down a little.  I haven't been sleeping with a satin scarf because it's too hot, and it's uncomfortable with all of these twists.  I do sleep on a satin pillowcase, though.

I'm hoping that when I do go back to wearing my hair out, my hair will respond just as well to the spray!

Consistent Results

One of my challenges with natural hair is consistency.  Sometimes I think I'm doing the exact same thing to my hair, and the results are completely different.  I don't remember having that challenge with relaxed hair!

However, I am learning how to get consistent results.  I try to deep condition every week with heat.  I am paying more attention to the weather since the humidity levels can affect my hair.  I am also more aware of how much product I use.  For example, I thought my hair hated Shea Moisture Curl Enhancing Smoothie, but now I think I was just using too much.  Now I use less than a dime sized amount to get moisturized and (somewhat) well-behaved hair.

The journey continues...

I'm also learning to embrace the frizz...and accepting that my hair doesn't do what everyone else's does.

Check out this frizz forecast to check the humidity in your area and plan your hair style!

March 2013 Update

I really feel like I'm turning the corner with my hair and things are getting much better!  The past 6 months have been challenging, mostly due to a lack of moisture.  I now know how to keep my hair moist, and I'm starting to enjoy the styles too.

A couple of weeks ago I was so frustrated with my hair.  I tried to get it braided, but the braiding shop was booked. I then tried to make an appointment at the salon to get it flat ironed, but I got nervous because I don't trust anyone in my hair at this point.  So I decided to straighten it myself. I hadn't straightened my hair once since my big chop in June.  I knew it could mess up my curl pattern, but I felt so bad about my hair that I had to try something.  My hair is kinky, but I have no definite curl pattern.  If anything, it would loosen my curls/kinks, which isn't a bad thing.  Even though my hair is pretty soft, it shrinks up about 95%.

Here are the results of my flat iron:

I didn't blow dry it, I just air dried in twists and then flat ironed.  I HATED the heat protectant I used (Tresemme).  It made my hair feel hard and dry and tangled.  I was shocked how easy it was to flat iron my hair.  I set my flat iron to 265 degrees and only had to go over my hair once in most areas.  However, ,my ends were so bad that they wouldn't even get straight and curl. So I trimmed about 1/4 of an inch. The next day I bought some Jane Carter Nourish and Shine and that really moisturized and softened my hair. I can't believe I'm just trying this. It's really good, even at the high price.

I didn't love it, but I liked it, and I got a boost of confidence seeing my growth.  I wore it straight for about a week, and either used satin rollers or tied the sides down at night. For my next wash, I was excited to see if the trim I gave myself would make my twistouts look better, and it did!

After washing and conditioning, I used the tension method to stretch my hair out a little. This made it sooo much easier to apply and distribute product.  When I took my twists out the next day, my curls weren't that defined, but I didn't use any gel or holding product, so I expected that.  I was just happy my hair was moist and looked cute.  I decided (out of boredom) to put 4 cornrows on one side.  A couple of days later, I re-twisted with a little gel on the ends, and my hair looked so much better.  

I don't want to flat iron my hair too much if I can help it, but it's a nice change every month or two.

Semi-Permanent

Since my allergic reaction to the black color I had put in last year, I've been very wary of color.  Henna hasn't helped me in terms of moisture.  I remembered how a semi-permanent color always gave life, shine and moisture to my hair. I am in desperate need of all three, so I decided to go with an Adore Plus Extra Conditioning color in Dark Red Brown.  (I'm on my own no-buy challenge, but I thought I could make an exception!)  I noticed a difference in moisture and shine as soon as I applied it! Even though the directs say you don't need to use heat, I sat under the dryer for about 25 minutes, just to make sure my hair absorbed it and it would cover my grays. I reviewed the Adore in black almost 5 years ago here.  I really like how this gave my hair some weight and seems to allow other products to work better.

I'm not sure why this works for me, since there are some ingredients like silicone and aloe vera juice that usually don't agree with my low porosity hair, but it does work.  It didn't completely cover my grays- they're still a little orange from the henna, but my hair is much improved.  Also, it probably won't last more than 2-3 washes, but I'm okay with that.  It's very affordable, and since it feels like a conditioner, I don't mind applying it often.

Coconut Oil & Aloe Vera Juice

When I first started my healthy hair journey almost 5 years ago, coconut oil was a godsend.  Whether I used it as a pre-poo, an aid to my roller setting lotion, or a sealant, it always gave me good results.  Since I've been natural, coconut oil hasn't been very agreeable to my hair.  I still try it once in a while, but haven't been impressed with the results.

This weekend we had a holiday party, and probably 90% of the women there were natural or transitioning to natural.  Of course, many of the female conversations were about hair!  One of my friends who went natural about a year ago, and has beautiful, healthy, color-treated hair, told me that coconut oil has really helped.  I complained that I still haven't found a product that my hair absorbs, and she told me that coconut oil is the only thing her hair really drinks in.  For her, it's best as a pre-poo before she shampoos her hair.  I knew I needed to wash my hair the next day, so I decided to give the coconut oil another try. I applied a generous amount from root to tip, put on a plastic cap and a satin scarf and went to bed.  I planned to wash my hair in the morning, but our water heater died, and I didn't get to wash my hair until later in the afternoon.  So the coconut oil was in my hair for over 12 hours.  When I took the plastic cap off, my hair definitely looked moist, but it also looked like it had some weight, which I wanted- to me, that meant that the oil was penetrating into my hair.  I co-washed my hair and deep conditioned with Aubrey Organics GPB. After I rinsed, I applied a dime-sized amount of Curly Kinky Knot Today Leave-In and sprayed aloe vera juice all over.  I twisted my hair with Ecostyler gel. When I took the twists out this morning, my hair was moist and shiny:

I definitely think the shine came from the coconut oil and aloe vera gel.  I'm going to continue to pre-poo with the coconut oil.  When it worked for me before, after a couple of months my hair got to a state where I didn't have to use it every week.  I'm hoping this will happen again.

I'm really happy about my growth.  Can you see my black tips from the color I had put in in May?  I can't wait to get rid of them. That part is so much frizzier and hard to manage than the rest of my hair!